This post is written by Julia and you can read more about Julia and her blog Earthtrekker here
Trolltunga is one of Norway’s most popular hikes for good reason. It is an incredibly scenic hike, ending at the Troll’s tongue, a thin sliver of rock perfect for creative photographs. This is definitely a hike to add to your bucket list.
For us, the hike to Trolltunga was our third of four hikes in Norway. Kjeragbolten was our favorite, but this hike was not far behind. The scenery along the hike is phenomenal with views out over lakes and snow capped mountains, and posing on Trolltunga for photos is a blast.
Facts About the Hike
- Distance: 28 km (17.4 miles) out and back
- Elevation Gain: 900 meters (2,950 feet)
- Difficulty: Strenuous
- Length of time: 10 – 12 hours
- When to go: June 15 to September 15 (without a guide). At all other times of the year you must hike with a guide. For more information, visit the Visit Norway website.
Important Update: There is a new car park that shaves off the first big climb of the hike. If you park here, the hike will be shorter with less elevation gain than is listed above. I don’t have the exact numbers, but parking in this new lot does save you a lot of time (about 3 hours). However, there are only 30 spots so you need to get here very early in the morning. Read more below.
Hiking to Trolltunga
The First Big Climb
The trailhead for Trolltunga is at the Skjeggedal carpark.
The first ascent of the hike is the most strenuous. It is 1 km of constant, steep climbing on stone steps and gravel trails before the terrain levels out.
There were once old funicular tracks here that you could climb instead of the rocky trail. This is what we did in 2013 (so we have photos of the funicular tracks but not the first part of the trail.)
A Series of Several Shorter Climbs
Once you conquer the first 1 km climb, things get easier. The trail levels out, for just a little bit, and then you will have several smaller climbs. However, these are nothing like what you just did.
Just before the start of the another climb.
Follow the red T’s to get to Trolltunga.
Looking out over the valley and what we just hiked. If you look closely, you can see the faint line of the hiking trail.
One more climb. After this, the trail levels out for awhile.
Standing on the granite face of the trail.
This is the view from the top of that last climb.
One of the tricks to having a good experience is to take breaks along the way. From this altitude, you have amazing panoramic views of Norway. Sure, getting to Trolltunga is the goal but enjoy this whole journey…it’s awesome!
We continued our trek, dodging mud puddles, climbing over boulders, and crossing numerous streams and creeks. Once you climb that granite face, the hike levels out, for the most part. There are several small climbs but nothing too difficult. Here are more photos of the trail until you get to Trolltunga.
Stepping out onto Trolltunga
It took us three and a half hours to hike from the carpark to Trolltunga.
The views over Trolltunga and out over the lake were awesome. There were tons of people here, some waiting in line to step out onto the ledge and others were waiting to take their photos. Tyler and Kara were two of the three kids we saw during the entire hike. Go kiddos!
Kara and I went first onto the tongue (after 45 minutes of waiting in line). After stepping out onto Kjeragbolten this did not seem scary at all. Kara and I did a few poses, then I took her back to sit on a rock and wait for me. I went back out to the tip of the tongue to sit with my feet hanging over the side.
Next it was Tim and Tyler’s turn. By now we were all getting quite cold. Temperatures were in the high 40’s (8 – 9°C) and it was early August.
Fortunately, the line was a little shorter for Tim and Tyler. Here they are, posing for the camera.
It took an hour and a half for all of us to have our photos taken. By now we were very chilly and already somewhat tired. All four of us were hoping the walk back to the car would be quicker than the walk out.
The Return Hike
The walk back was slightly faster. We did not need to stop for sunscreen, photos, or much food now. The signs counting down the kilometers kept us going, and we snacked on lots of cookies. It took us three hours to hike back to a car, shaving off about a half hour from the hike to get to Trolltunga.
About Our Experience
We did this hike in August 2013 when the funicular tracks were still open. At the time we did this hike, Tyler was 10 and Kara was 8 years old.
We are very fast hikers, even with kids. The four of us hiked to Trolltunga in 8 hours (3.5 hours to get to Trolltunga, 1.5 hours for photos, and 3 hours to hike back to the car). We were constantly overtaking other people and we had perfect weather conditions. If you take your time or encounter marshy, snowy terrain, this hike can take as long as 10 to 12 hours.
How Do You Get to Trolltunga?
Trolltunga is located in southern Norway near Hardangerfjord. Most people stay in Odda or Tyssedal to hike Trolltunga.
Distances to Trolltunga:
- From Bergen: 3 hours
- From Oslo: 5 to 6 hours
- From Stavanger: 3.5 hours
Lately, we have been getting a lot of questions from people who want to day trip from Bergen, hike Trolltunga, and then drive back to Bergen the same day. That is possible to do, but it will be a very long, tiring day, and I don’t recommend it. The hike to Trolltunga can take 12 hours (although if you take the shuttle to and from the upper parking lot you can save about 3 hours). Add in 6 hours of driving for the day and that’s a very long day. Plus, you will have to drive all of the way back to Bergen after hiking 28 km. It will be a much more enjoyable (and safer) experience if you stay near Trolltunga, at least for one night.
The best way to get around this region of Norway is by car. Having a rental car gives you the freedom to take your time, stop and enjoy the views (this part of Norway is gorgeous!), and visit small towns and off-the-beaten-path destinations.
However, if you are relying on public transportation, you can get to Odda by bus and by train.
Getting to Odda By Bus
- The Trolltunga-Preikestolen Express bus connects the Trolltunga hike with Pulpit Rock during the summer months.
- From Stavanger, take the Nor-Way bus.
- From Oslo, take the Haukliekspressen bus.
- From Bergen, take bus 930.
Getting to Odda By Train
The Bergensbanen connects Bergen and Odda.
Where to Park
Main Lot
From Tyssedal, drive 7 km on Skjeggedalsvegen to the car park at the start of the hike. This is where the trailhead is located. There is a small parking lot here with toilets. Parking costs NOK500 (180 spaces).
Map of the drive from Tyssedal to the parking lot in Skjeggedal.
The road from Tyssedal to the car park (looking back towards Tyssedal and Sorfjord).
Trolltunga Road Lot
There is a second, much smaller parking lot (called Mågelitopp or P3) that holds 30 cars (NOK 600). This road is very steep, you need to have good driving skills and be able to drive tight, hairpin turns. Driving to this parking lot eliminates the first climb and final descent of the hike, shaving off a whopping 3 hours of hiking time. The gates open at 6 am.
Purchase your ticket in advance for Magelitopp (P3). Click here to learn more and to make your reservation.
You can park in Skjeggedal (the lower lot) and take a shuttle bus up to Mågelitopp, the upper lot. Taking the shuttle one way saves you roughly 1.5 hours of hiking time. Prices start at NOK 130. Click here to learn more.
Best Places to Stay Near Trolltunga
There are people who hike Trolltunga on a day trip from Bergen but we don’t recommend it. You are setting yourself up for a very long, exhausting day. For the best experience, plan on staying in one of the small towns near Trolltunga: Tyssedal, Odda, Kinsarvik, or Eidfjord.
Read our detailed post on the best places to stay near the hike.
How to Have the Best Experience
Start early! This is a long day and you want to give yourself as much time as possible. Try to hit the trail no later than 8 am.
Don’t underestimate this hike. It’s a long, tiring hike. And yes, it really can take 12 hours. Over the course of the day, you will essentially be hiking a half marathon with lots of elevation gain. You wouldn’t just plan on rolling out of bed one day to go run a half marathon, right? 🙂 You need to be in good shape to do this.
There is no fee to hike Trolltunga. However, if you have a car, you will have to pay for parking.
Use the bathroom in the car park before starting the hike. This is your only chance to use a toilet until you get back to the parking lot.
Between June 15 and September 15 you do not need a guide to do this hike. There are enough people on the trail, and the trail is marked well enough, that you should have no issues finding your way to Trolltunga. Once you are at Trolltunga, you can have another hiker take your photograph (if you are hiking solo).
If you are hiking from September 16 to June 14, Visit Norway recommends hiring a guide. Every year there are numerous rescues for people who got in over their heads. Don’t be one of these statistics.
You Should Bring
- Waterproof hiking shoes
- Plenty of food and water
- Sunscreen
- First Aid Kit
- Rain jacket and warm clothing (the weather can change rapidly!)
- Camera
Hiking to Trolltunga with Kids
At the time we did this hike, Tyler was 10 and Kara was 8 years old. They both did awesome. They were happy and having a good time for almost the entire time (Kara struggled a little with the walk down the funicular line).
We only saw one other child (about 10 years old) on the trail. A very adventurous child, eight years or older with lots of long distance hiking experience, should be able to handle this hike.
Alternative Route to Trolltunga
If you do not like the idea of the hike, there is a combination cycle trip and Via Ferrata climb to get you to Trolltunga. The Via Ferrata was not option when we did the hike so we do not have much information about it. For more information on the Via Ferrata click here.
About the Trolltunga Funicular
It’s unfortunate that the funicular is closed, it was one of the most unique parts of the hike. But it was dangerous. One false step and you could be rolling down the hill like a bowling ball, taking out other hikers!
At first it was a shallow incline so it was pretty easy. But it didn’t take long until the tracks made a sharp turn upward and real climbing began. Basically, we were ascending a ladder while holding onto a metal wire with our right hands. Along the way we would stop and take breaks and look down at what we had accomplished and then look up at the work we still had to do.
Photos from the Funicular
